Lion Buildings FAQs

If you’re looking for custom metal building information, you’ve come to the right place! The expert metal building specialists on our team have decades of combined experience in the metal building industry, so we know exactly the right answer to any question that might come up while you’re researching metal building information. Below, you will find answers to the questions we receive most often from our customers.

Customization

What is the gauge of the metal sheet?

We use 29-gauge as standard, and 26-gauge may be used in areas with high wind or ordered as an upgrade depending on your location.

What gauge steel is the metal frame?

We use a 14-gauge 2 ½” square tubing, galvanized steel framing. This is pretty standard throughout the industry. These buildings are engineered for wind speeds of 140mph and a 35′ sq ft snow load. For an alternative, we can upgrade your building upon request to 12-gauge 2 ¼” square tubing, galvanized steel framing. 12-gauge is the thicker gauge.

What situations may add to the cost of my building?

Units installed over an existing structure or obstruction, trip charges will apply for installations outside of normal service area and could apply toward outer edges of service area, installation on an unlevel site, installation on a deck or dock, installation on an elevated retaining wall, and others. Fees are assessed on a case-by-case basis,including materials that have to be transported by food over 50 feet to the installation site.

Does it cost extra for color choices?

No. You may choose from as many as 14 colors for your roof, walls, and trim, and all color selections are offered at no additional charge.

Can I get a customized size?

To keep it simple, we advertise standard-size buildings that work with most applications but custom sizes are typically not a problem and do not cost extra than doing a standard size. This is the case for custom widths and lengths, additional fees may apply if the structure is beyond 12 feet tall.

What is the roof pitch of my garage or carport?

The standard roof pitch is approximately 3:12, meaning for every 1 foot horizontally, you gain 3 inches vertically. You do have options for a 4:12 pitch.

What are the differences in roof styles, and which one should I choose?

Regular-style standard roof units have rounded corners and are considered the “basic” of carport designs. Acting as a founding product for all other designs, the standard roof unit is typically the most economical and affordable product.

  1. Boxed-eave units are designed with an A-frame roof truss and horizontal roof panels. This modern design has made this style unit one of the most popular available. An upgrade to a boxed-eave style roof is both stylish and affordable.
  2. Vertical roof units are designed with an “A” frame roof truss and vertical roof panels. Hat channel runs the length of the unit to cross brace the roof and provide a mounting point for the roof panels. This design helps to prevent weathering elements such as rain and snow from “standing” on your building. Vertical-roof units come standard with ridge cap and specially-designed wider trim that gives the product a modern, finished appearance.

Installation

Can the building be attached to another structure, such as my home, existing garage, etc.?

We cannot attach our building to an existing structure; however we can “butt” up against as close as possible to meet your project needs.

Do I need a permit to build?

Unfortunately, we cannot say for sure whether or not you will need a building permit, due to the range of requirements from one city to the next. However, there are some states, such as California, Florida, Arizona, Nevada, and New York, that historically require building permits in the larger areas or within the city limits. Engineered plans for our metal buildings can be provided upon request, so speak with one of our building specialists to help guide you through this process.

Miscellaneous

What is the best way to place my order, and what are the payment terms?

We accept all major credit cards, money orders, personal checks, business checks, and POs(with prior approval). Typically, a 15% deposit is due at the time of the order and the balance is to be paid at the time of installation via cashier’s or certified check.

What is the difference between a certified and an uncertified building?

Certified buildings are engineered to meet a specific snow and/or wind load, which typically means more structural framing and possibly heavier gauges of steel. You should be aware of your area’s requirements for your area. Our building specialists can assist you with your requirements, as they often change from city to county. At the end of the day, it is solely the responsibility of the customer but we are here to help guide you through the process.

How is my carport or garage anchored?

If the building is going on ground or dirt for non-certified units, 32-inch rebar anchors are inserted through predrilled holes in the base rail. The anchors are driven into the ground for a secure hold. On Florida-certified units, mobile home anchors are augured into ground and a bolt is inserted through the side of the base-rail. The bolt is secured with a nut. If the building is going on concrete slab, then holes are drilled into your concrete slab. Wedge anchors are interested through the base rail of your unit into the holes in the concrete and fastened for a secure hold. If the building is going on asphalt for non-certified units, 32-inch rebar anchors are inserted through the base rail. A small hole is made in your asphalt, and the anchor is driven in the ground in the asphalt. For certified units, mobile home anchors must be used. If the building is going on a wood deck or similar surface, lag bolts are inserted through predrilled holes in the carport base rails and screwed down into the wood surface for a secure hold.

What type of anchors can be secured to the ground?

We have three different types of anchors. They are:

For ground or asphalt installation, we use 32-inch rebar anchors.

For ground and asphalt installations that are Florida-certified,double helix mobile home anchors are used. Those anchors can be used on non-certified ground installations at an additional charge.

Wedge anchors are used for concrete installations.

Can I add onto my building after it is installed?

$150.00. The additions can only be made to buildings we have previously installed. We do not add on to steel buildings from other manufactures.

Does my site of installation need to be level?

This is a very important step, because it is vital to have the area of installation as close to level as possible. The installers can typically work within a 3 to 5-inch tolerance, but you may incur additional labor cost if extra material is needed or cuts to the legs are needed to level the building properly.

Size

What is the widest building I can get?

As standard, we provide clear-span buildings ranging from 12’ to 60’ feet wide. If you are looking for something wider, we would suggest you consider our “barn style” buildings, which include a center structure along with lean-tos that would technically give you wider structure beyond 60’ feet in width. Our building specialists can guide you through that process if you are interested.

What is the tallest leg height I can get?

Our standard tallest leg height is 12 feet. Taller leg heights are available on a case-by-case basis and typically will require some additional fees for lifts, surveys, and labor. As a side note, we typically suggest a 12-gauge frame for leg heights taller than 10 feet. Our building specialist can guide you through the options available for your application.

I want to pour a pad, so what size should I pour? How deep should I pour my footings?

  1. POUR the concrete 3 inches wider and longer than the building footprint.

This means that our contractor will center the building so that there is  1 1/2 inches of exposed concrete on the sides and ends of the building.

  1. Slope the 1 1/2 inches of exposed concrete all the way around the building in a 1/4 inch DOWNWARD SLOPE-AWAY from the building so that any water that falls onto the exposed concrete will roll AWAY from the inside of the building.

It is important to note that these requirements are suggested universally so you should always confirm your footing requirements from your local building department.